Pigmentation & Dark Spots

What is melasma, and what can I do about it?

Updated 1. January 2024

Immediate Answer: Melasma is hormonally driven pigmentation—typically triggered by pregnancy, birth control pills, or hormone replacement therapy. Unlike sun spots (which are caused purely by UV exposure), melasma has an internal hormonal component, which makes it more persistent and harder to treat. It appears as larger, symmetrical patches—usually on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, or chin—rather than the scattered individual spots you see with sun damage.

The Science: All pigmentation involves melanin overproduction, but the triggers differ:

  • Sun spots / age spots: Caused by cumulative UV damage. Melanocytes overproduce melanin in response to repeated sun exposure. Treatment addresses external damage.
  • Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH): Triggered by skin inflammation (acne, eczema, injury). Temporary—fades as skin heals.
  • Melasma: Triggered by hormonal changes that stimulate melanocytes directly. Oestrogen and progesterone increase melanocyte activity independent of sun exposure—though UV makes it dramatically worse. This dual trigger (hormones + UV) is why melasma is so stubborn.

Melasma affects up to 50–70% of pregnant women (often called the "pregnancy mask") and is significantly more common in women with medium-to-dark skin tones. It can also be triggered by birth control pills, hormone replacement therapy, and thyroid disorders.

The key clinical difference: sun spots respond predictably to anti-pigmentation treatment. Melasma can improve with treatment but is more likely to recur if the hormonal trigger persists—which is why professional guidance, maintenance, and sun protection are critical.

Treatment — what works: Melasma is a complex condition that typically requires professional dermatological assessment. The gold standard treatments include prescription-strength hydroquinone (2–4%), topical tretinoin, azelaic acid (15–20%), and in some cases oral tranexamic acid—all of which require a dermatologist's guidance. Over-the-counter ingredients like tranexamic acid, kojic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C can support treatment and help maintain results, but are generally not sufficient as standalone treatments for moderate-to-severe melasma.

Caution with laser: Laser treatments for melasma require extreme expertise. Aggressive settings can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation—making the melasma worse. If you pursue laser, choose a dermatologist experienced specifically with melasma, not just general pigmentation.

Ask your dermatologist whether Nordic Formula fits into your melasma treatment: If you're being treated for melasma by a dermatologist, we always recommend asking your dermatologist whether Nordic Formula can complement your treatment.

Pro Tip: If you suspect melasma rather than sun spots, the pattern is your clue. Melasma is typically symmetrical (both cheeks, both sides of the forehead). Sun spots are random. If your pigmentation appeared during pregnancy, after starting birth control, or seems to worsen with hormonal cycles—see a dermatologist for a proper assessment, and use Nordic Formula as your supporting daily routine with your dermatologist's approval.

Was this helpful?